Illusory Enchantment Exploring Illusions in the LOEWE Fall-Winter 2024 Collection

Creating a labyrinthine atmosphere reminiscent of a hidden garden or art gallery, the setting for the LOEWE Women’s Fall-Winter 2024 runway show drew inspiration from the verdant works of American painter Albert York, who left a creative legacy until his passing in 2009. Jonathan Anderson’s designs engaged in a visual dialogue with 18 of York’s paintings adorning the walls.

Just as a painting holds layers of meaning, each LOEWE silhouette entices closer scrutiny, playing with perception. Coat collars unexpectedly reveal wooden carvings, while floral tapestries find new life through intricate beaded embroidery. An array of delicate embellishments adorns not only garments but also graces biker boots, transforming them into accessories suitable for a countryside stroll or adorns Squeeze bags with botanical relief. In the realm of both art and fashion, attention to detail proves transformative. The belt transcends its accessory status, deconstructed with a buckle that secures the drapery of a dress or morphs into a heeled mule. A colossal water droplet hangs from the shoulder, functioning like a magnifying glass, intensifying the impact of the floral print.

Mirroring Albert York’s pastoral landscapes, the collection breathes with botanical elements: a bustier shaped like petals, a hand-beaded asparagus bag, or trousers adorned with radish and turnip prints. Harmonious contradictions emerge in the fusion of feminine-masculine elements, seen in shirt-tie combinations, the simplicity of boxer shorts juxtaposed with faultless jackets, and flowing slacks. LOEWE’s signature leather transforms into a protective cocoon within an aviator jacket, while trompe-l’œil ostrich leather embellishes a suit. Playful appropriation characterizes the looks, including a sculpted dress featuring a full-frontal dog print and a sweater with intentionally pulled threads, creating a whimsical fluffy foam effect.

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